The Monuments

It was a full day in Delhi. Six hours with a driver and a wonderful guide in a city of 15 million and growing.

Shivam will turn thirty soon, about the time he begins his doctoral dissertation on early Indian literature. I learned much from him about the Mughal conquests, the centuries before, the takeover by the British after, and the hard fought independence. He also educated me on the Indian caste system and the despair that often accompanies arranged marriages. A topic for another time.

Shivam’s task today was to introduce me to some of the major monuments.

The Qutb Minar, the “victory tower” started by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first Muslim ruler of Delhi.

The Bara Gumbad built during the Lodi dynasty. Delhi’s earliest full dome.

Humayun's Tomb, the final resting place of the Mughal Emperor, Humayun.

And the Nai-ka-Gumbad. The tomb of Humayun’s barber.

But as impressive as these structures are, I prefer to walk the streets rather than drive them.



And to explore the little places just out of sight.

Tomorrow I’ll walk Old Dehli with a small group, and a guide who knows where best to sample the local cuisine.