On The Way To The Temple

I started the day with the intention of visiting Kashi Vishwanath, the Golden Temple, dedicated to Vishveswara, Shiva as lord of the universe.

But I got lost in the lanes, only to be befriended by Ram,

shopkeeper and philosopher.

Ram said I was too late, as a thousand people would be in line. It would be best to return before sunrise as there would be only a hundred or so.

So we talked.

To say “Ram”, he said, in its oldest Sanskrit sense, is to say “that in which the soul finds rest and delight,” जल्द ही फिर मिलेंगे.

Ram explained the stages of the Hindu life, how he was nearing the fourth, the stage of the forest dweller.

He shared his concerns for the younger generation, how they don’t want to talk about Shiva, about religion, only about love and sex.

He then described his day. How it begins at three at the river’s edge to bathe. The walk in the dark to pray at Kashi Vishwanath. The walk to his shop to open by seven. Lunch at noon, his only meal of the day. The walk home by five to fly kites with his grandson.

Ram then directed me to follow him, the back way, where I could view Kashi Vishwanath from a distance,

and find my way beyond.

I came upon a complex of open space,

with visitors

and devotees,

then descended back steps alone

where I was greeted by officer Manish Yadav,

who informed me that I wasn’t allowed there, but was kind enough to show me the way beyond,

where I met a Sadhu

whose name I can’t recall, though I think names are unimportant to a Sadhu.

After a blessing and moments of silence, he introduced me to his friend,

who does not speak.

I continued on, passing a shrine,

to where women bathe,

and a vantage point over the Ganga at which to rest,

then the entrance to Manikarnika,

the great ghat of cremation where I’ll return before sunrise.

Retracing my steps, I stopped to make way for a procession to Manikarnika.

Late morning and nearing the Anand Kanan,

I paid my respects to a woman I greet daily.