Just Across The River

Up the river 1 km from Green Chwadi is a bridge. Cross over and within a few hundred yards you’re at the entrance to a vast protected land. Home to all but a few of Nepal’s “Great One Horned Rhinos," the jungle sanctuary is the pride of the Nepalese just as much as the Annapurna.

And on an afternoon that would reach 90 degrees, Pa and I had the good fortune to be in the company of Sandeep Mahato, Bishal Mahato, and Jit Bahadur.

Each an accomplished guide from the Tharu community, they’re expert in the ways of the Rhino - its movements, feeding habits, protective nature, and temperament that make it quite dangerous in certain situations and at predictable times.

We set off with Jit in the lead, followed by Sandeep the principal spokesman, and Bishal protecting our backsides.

Once we arrived at the first watering hole,

Sandeep informed us that “we’re in their neighborhood.”

Shortly after we were in the thick of it,

Jit gesturing that we walk very quietly.

There’s a reason, Pa and I were told, as to why Jit takes the lead. He has the keenest eye of the three and almost always the first to see one.

No sooner had we slowed down and Jit spotted her,

on the far bank of the river, young one in tow.

Sandeep whispered that the female is pregnant for about 18 months, after which only a single calf is born. Weighing as much as a hundred pounds, it's up and walking within minutes. Sandeep estimated this one to be about 8 weeks old.

Quite a sight those two.

We observed them for several minutes before they were prompted to move toward greater safety.

“They may have picked up our scent,” Sandeep told us. “Their sight is poor, but their hearing and sense of smell amazing.”

Moving on, Bishal said we were very fortunate, as oftentimes you can walk the jungle for half a day without a single sighting.

An hour passed and we came upon a tower.

“It’s for observation, and for safety,” Sandeep explained. “There are times when we must be out of their reach.”

Just then, Bishall spotted another,

feeding in tall grass not far away.

Abruptly, the sound of an engine, perhaps a motorcycle, disturbed the silence. “We must get to the tower,” urged Jit.

“Two males are fighting.”

Once out of harms way, Sandeep explained that the Rhino is most dangerous during mating season and when two adult males confront each other. “They can cover a tremendous distance in little time when they’re angry.”

It was peaceful at the top, the river moving lazily downstream,

the grass land beyond.

After several minutes Bishal descended then beckoned for us to follow.

A mother and calf were having a late lunch.

They would be the last we’d see but the afternoon wasn’t over.

There were spotted deer, too quick to photograph. And monkeys sunbathing on the far shore.

On the jungle floor the scat of sloth,

and rhino,

delicate flowers,

and the footprints of rhino,

wild peacock,

and the Royal Bengal Tiger.

The afternoon waning,

we started back, but not before a last sighting,

wild boar in the distance.

Back to the forest that surrounds the jungle,

we walked on gifts

offered by the great trees overhead.

The sun’s day nearly at its end,

dinner awaited at Green Chwadi.